Ford Diesel Tractor Alternator Wiring Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have obtained a Ford 3000 and it has been upgrade to an alternator. I am replacing the old wiring harness. How do I wire up the new harness to the alternator?
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I had a manual ordered with the wiring harness but it was not in the box. Will the manual show anything about being updated to a alternator?
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There are different kinds of alternators. Some with an internal voltage regulator and some without, some with only 1 wire, some with 2, some with more. Can't help you without knowing exactly what alternator you have.
I guess that you know that the 3000 had a generator with a separate voltage regulator originally. Did you order a stock 3000 replacement wire harness? If so, the manual that comes with it probably won't tell you how to hook it up to your alternator.
Is the tractor working properly with the old wire harness? If so, I would wire up the new one the same way as the old one. If it's not working properly, then maybe the fact that the generator was replaced with an alternator and the previous owner didn't hook it up properly may be contributing to the problems.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The alternator has a hot wire going to the + on the battery. The other coupler is a two wire. One goes to the hot on the alternator and the other somewhere else. The old harness has so many splices in it you could not tell or know what is was for.
I was going back with a generator but after ordering the old style harness decided to stay with an alternator. I did not see and harness for the 3000 with an alternator. Course I was not really looking for one since i was going back with an alternator. A mechanic talked me out of going back with generator.
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There are several wiring diagrams for using an alternator on the the 3 cylinder Fords floating around the net, but most of them are for either 1 wire or 2 wire alternator setups. I've heard of 3 wire setups but I've never seen a diagram of how to wire it.
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3 wire setups use a heavy gauge B+ wire, and a light gauge B+ wire and the 3rd wire is the Field Excitation (light gauge). This would require and external regulator.
My Ford 1100 uses this kind of alternator with a mechanical regulator.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
donimbimbo
Can you give me more information on how to wire this. Photos would be appreciated.
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I'll see if I can photo copy a page from my 1100 manual
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There are actually 4 connections on my alternator.
The B+ is the output, to the battery.
The other 3 are in a small connctor.
F is the field coil
E is actually a ground connection
N goes to the charge lamp (center connection on stator)
The mechanical regulator has 6 electrical connections, as you see on the schematic.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As stated above, mine has a 3 wire alternator on it. I have a new replacement harness that works with a generator. It there a way to by pass the regulator and get it to work with the new wiring? Does anyone makes a harness for the 3000 diesel with 3 wire alternator?
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Does your alternator have an internal voltage regulator? if so, you should be able to take the large connection off of the alternator and run it straight to the battery, thus bypassing the original external voltage regulator. I'm not sure about where the other connections from the alternator would go though. I don't think that anyone makes a wiring harness for that setup. Even the 3600, which was the next model after the 3000, and came from the factory with an alternator, still had an external voltage regulator.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mine has an internal regulator. Would it be easier to just get a 1 wire alternator and hook it up through the regulator that on the tractor using the new wiring harness? If so how would you wire that up?
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Most 1 wire alternators also have an internal regulator.
Was the system working properly before you decided to replace the wiring harness (oil pressure and battery charge lights worked, and fuel gauge and temperature gauges worked, and the battery was being properly charged)? If so, you should be able to trace where the wires went and then use an ohm meter to figure out which wires in the new harness will make the same connections for you.
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By the way, donimbimbo's schematic is for an alternator WITHOUT an internal regulator. The external regulator is clearly labelled in the schematic, so it is not correct for your alternator.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No, the wiring harness was burnt and the last owner had splice it so many times before the melt down that it needed a new harness.
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I've searched around on the net, but I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for a 3 wire alternator conversion on a 1965-19675 Ford tractor. Every thread on every forum that I can find ends with someone sending the diagram directly to the other person via either email or postal mail, and not actually posting the diagram in the forum messages. Hopefully someone will come along here who has a copy and will be kind enough to post the picture here or send it to you.
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I had a 1966 3400 Ford Tractor that I put a 1 wire alternator with an internal regulator on. I disconnected the field and gen wires to the original voltage regulator. I hooked the alternator directly to the positive side of the battery, but I also used an on/off switch. With the tractor running I turned on the switch and off when it wasn't running.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The above info helped a lot. I am good on the alternator to get it working. Now what about all the other wires that went to the regulator? What do I do with them? The photos and diagrams help a lot. I am getting there now.
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You can reuse some of the wires and the rest will be of no use, just leave them in the harness and tape the ends. The may come to use in the future...
Here is a link to wiring diagrams, they differ a bit depending on at what factory the tractor was assembled.
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2963
I have made a suggestion about the wiring, I used the diagram for tractors assembled in the US (C = Highland Park). The charging wiring is the same for A (Antwerp, Belgium) and B (Basildon, United Kingdom). If anyone sees something wrong or have different ideas, please reply.
1. Check the wire gauge needed for the charging wire on your alternator on http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/alternator_conversion/wiring_alternator1.html
2. Put new charging wire and new sensing wire between alternator and starter (You could reuse a piece of wire for the sensing, but it is better and easier not to splice).
3. Splice the wire from starter and the wire from ignition key (BR = Brown). If the generator regulator is still present, place the ends as originally in diagram. The "B" lugs makes a junction.
4. Splice the ends at WL and F on regulator in diagram. They should not be connected to regulator, if present.
5. Connect the end at F on generator in diagram to the alternator's #1 lug (Field excitation and Warning lamp).
6. Connect a new ground wire, same gauge as the charging wire, between alternator housing and good earth.
7. If the old generator regulator is present, nothing else but the "B" lugs should have connections.
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Posted by: ferdinandtakaoka.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/65-ford-diesel-3000.250241/
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